Let's start at the end: what you will see and read below is for "cultural" purposes only because the 102 planned pieces of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon created in collaboration with Haute Couture designer Tamara Ralph, it seems, were all already sold on the very day of its official unveiling...
A record you might say? Not even that much, given the succession of Royal Oak limited series, all of which "sold out" practically the very moment they went on sale.
How can this be explained? Many factors are at play, above all the "eagerness" to own a unique piece, a special series, a timepiece destined to maintain its value or perhaps increase the same over time. Then there is the idea of the fetish, the piece to be proudly displayed, the exclusive rarity that would theoretically make the wearer exclusive as well.
This and much more behind the official presentation on January 22, 2024 of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon created in collaboration with Haute Couture designer Tamara Ralph. Inspired by the designer's aesthetic that blends bold femininity, inexhaustible creativity, and timeless elegance, this limited edition 18K rose gold timepiece sparkles thanks to its Frosted Gold finish, reflecting a unique palette of hues ranging from brown and bronze to golden tones. This collaboration, announced during Tamara Ralph's show in Paris for Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, celebrates the natural synergies between Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture, reinforcing the ties that Audemars Piguet has built over the years with numerous creative universes.
Believing in the power of creativity to nurture culture, connect people and broaden horizons, Audemars Piguet has always looked to the wider world for inspiration. Over the years, the Manufacture has fostered a stimulating dialogue between many areas of creative practice, including Haute Couture, with which it shares a strong commitment to craftsmanship, precision and excellence that never compromises.
In 2020, Audemars Piguet began a collaboration with fashion designer Tamara Ralph, matching several of her watches with the designer's Spring/Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection. Continuing their enduring relationship, Audemars Piguet and Tamara Ralph collaborated this year on the design of a limited-edition Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon inspired by Ralph's Couture universe. The watch was unveiled on Jan. 22, 2024, during the designer's fashion show in Paris, which will highlight the two brands' forward-thinking approach to craftsmanship, their perfect fusion of ancestral skills and modern techniques, and their exclusive creations that are both objects of art and vectors of emotion.
"For the design of this watch ho wanted to capture the spirit and craftsmanship of both my brand and of Audemars Piguet. The watchmaking complications harmoniously create a base that can be played with in terms of texture, color and design, allowing the savoir-faire of Haute Couture to shine through. With a combination of fine materials, unique color palettes and utmost precision, we have created a wonderful limited edition of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon inspired by Haute Couture." Said Tamara Ralph, Creative Director and founder of the eponymous brand.
"Tamara's endless pursuit of perfection is totally in tune with our watchmakers' dedication to pushing the boundaries of their savoir-faire. We are delighted to begin 2024 in partnership with a woman so ready to inspire us, and this is just the beginning!" Said Ilaria Resta, chief executive officer, Audemars Piguet
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon "Tamara Ralph" Limited Edition displays an 18-karat rose gold case embellished with a Frosted Gold finish. This ancient Florentine jewelry technique was revisited by jewelry designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to decorate the Manufacture's timepieces. Tiny carvings are created on the gold surface with a diamond-tipped tool for a sparkling effect similar to that of precious stones. Its visual strength is accentuated by the polished bevel outlining the octagonal bezel, while the satin-finished sides of the case create further contrast. The juxtaposition of finishing techniques-a meticulous operation that required perfect alignment between the hammered, brushed, and polished surfaces-confers the case a sumptuous texture, giving it endless plays of light.
Instead, the anti-reflective sapphire crystal in the case back is held in place by an octagonal 18-karat rose gold frame, finished with satin and polished bevels and engraved with "Royal Oak Concept Limited Edition."
Finally, the hexagonal crown, whose shape recalls the steel screws that dot the bezel, also plays with light thanks to its satin and polished finish. The translucent cabochon-cut sapphire adds an extra touch of feminine elegance to the case design.
The multilevel dial is inspired by the bold femininity and texture details of Tamara Ralph's Haute Couture creations. It is composed of four circular rose gold plates that overlap and create a ripple effect starting from the flying tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock. Each level features a different color, evolving from brown and bronze in the center, and then reaching golden tones toward the end of the dial. While the brown and gold tones were achieved through a galvanic treatment, the bronze-colored level is covered with a bronze lacquer. The dial features a satin finish with a continuous soleil pattern that radiates from the hands outward in a seamless alignment from one plate to the other. Pushing the details to the limit, each plate is decorated with a fine diamond-polished gold wire that adds depth to the dial.
Coordinating with the circular, multilevel architecture of the dial, the flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock blends technical mastery with refined aesthetics. The upper structure of the cage integrates three rings radiating from an off-center disc that is paved with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.04 carat). Its rose gold hue echoes the 18-karat rose gold hour and minute hands, both with luminescent coating for optimal legibility in the dark. At 12 o'clock, the applied rose gold AP monogram adds the finishing touch. The hour markers have been omitted to accentuate the purity and harmony of the dial design.
The timepiece features a bronze-colored alligator strap with a hand-stitched "large square scales" pattern. It also comes with a brown alligator strap that echoes the center of the dial for a refined look. The two straps are decorated with a pearl finish. The timepiece's shimmering hues and intricate details make a strong visual impact both up close and from a distance, just as a Haute Couture creation would.
Powered by the Hand-wound Caliber 2964, this limited edition combines tradition and modernity. Its flying tourbillon, visible at 6 o'clock, allows a glimpse of the mechanism pulsating inside. This delicate and exclusive complication counteracts the effects of gravity on the watch's precision. The balance and escapement are mounted in a tiny rotating cage that makes one revolution every minute to prevent their center of gravity from remaining in the same direction. In contrast to the tourbillon, the flying tourbillon cage is supported only from below to leave the watch's beating heart visible on the side of the dial. Today it is considered a symbol of the art of watchmaking, as only a few experienced watchmakers still possess the necessary skills to make it.
Inspired by the circular, multilevel aesthetic of the dial, the movement's back bridges, which can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back, are decorated with five circles that start at the back of the flying tourbillon cage and increase in size as one proceeds to the outer perimeter. Alternating sandblasting and satin-brushing adds texture and depth and delicately echoes the fine Frosted Gold finish that decorates the case. The sapphire crystal case back also reveals the unique bridge on which the flying tourbillon cage is attached, while a further opening reveals part of the Mechanism. Design and development of the movement have once again merged to achieve perfect harmony, both inside and out, just as is the case with Haute Couture.
"This timepiece is the quintessential feminine expression of the flying tourbillon, whose lightness, precision and elegance combine with a quality of execution that symbolizes its values." Finally, Anne-Gaëlle Quinet, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, commented.
