Daniel Roth unveiled his Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024 as part of the House's relaunch.The watch celebrates the Tourbillon reference 2187/c187, Daniel Roth's first model.
A pioneer of independent watchmaking, Daniel Roth founded the eponymous brand in 1988 after playing a key role in reviving the Breguet brand in Switzerland. With a workshop in the Vallee de Joux, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, Daniel Roth quickly made a name for himself with unique and original watches that carried a distinctive aesthetic. The design of the timepiece was key in combining historical inspiration, particularly from the works of Abraham-Louis Breguet, with a creative and modern case known as a "double ellipse." The use of guilloché dials and blued steel hands was reminiscent of great historical pieces, but the double ellipse case was undeniably singular and born from the mind of the Master himself. In fact, Daniel Roth designed all his original models, first making them with watercolors on paper, like a true artist.
An exceptional shape combining a circle with a square, the double ellipse case became the canvas for all of Daniel Roth's signature complications. Like his stylistic codes, the brand's early complications were inspired by history but made unique by the master's discerning eye. Working at a steady pace launching one new complication a year, Daniel Roth created a catalog of noteworthy watches ranging from chronograph, perpetual calendar and ultra-thin watches, a remarkable achievement for a young Maison. Even more impressive was the Tourbillon that Daniel Roth introduced in 1989 at the launch of his brand. One of the very first wristwatch tourbillons ever made, his creation deliberately featured a double-ellipse case; in fact, this unique shape allowed the tourbillon cage to be framed in the best possible way. The first Souscription order of 25 pieces through London-based retailer Asprey allowed for the financing of subsequent developments while mass production of the Tourbillon quickly followed.
The Tourbillon quickly became the brand's flagship model; it was offered in all precious metals complemented by a stainless steel limited edition of 20 pieces for the Italian market. Special finishes such as scroll engravings and skeletonized calibers were also available on special orders. Appropriately, this historic wristwatch is the inaugural creation of the revamped Maison. While resolutely faithful to the spirit of the original, the new Tourbillon Souscription nonetheless boasts refinements to the design and mechanics, notably with a brand new in-house caliber and the distinctive solid gold guilloché dial . The case remains the classic double ellipse in both shape and size, but with subtle improvements in its shape, particularly in the improved ergonomics of the lugs and the reduced height of the case with a thickness of 9.2 mm, almost 2 mm thinner than the original Tourbillon ref. 2187/C187.
The first prototype was unveiled during LVMH Watch Week in late January, after which all 20 pieces will be delivered to customers in the first half of this year. The Tourbillon Souscription encapsulates the direction of , which will preserve the exclusivity, craftsmanship and dedicated approach to complications embodied in the watches created by Daniel Roth when he founded the brand more than three decades ago. The relaunch is being carried out with the support of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton's Geneva-based Manufacture responsible for making all new watches.
The Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is still led by its founders, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, watchmakers who, like Daniel Roth himself, are craftsmen and technicians steeped in the history of haute horlogerie. Relying on their accumulated experience in building fine complications, the two are stewards are absolutely capable of recapturing the magic of the brand's origins. Moreover, as longtime friends of Daniel Roth, they continually draw on his expertise and historical knowledge. "I have always respected Daniel for his pioneering spirit as an independent watchmaker," says Michel Navas, "and it is an honor to be able to reimagine his philosophy of watchmaking." Enrico Barbasini adds, "Daniel's watches have a special charm and refinement that makes them special, and we remain true to his vision with new creations."
