W&W2024: Rolex reinvents the black/grey GMT-Master II in Oystersteel

 Rolex has introduced two new Oystersteel versions of its Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, both featuring a two-tone Cerachrom bezel in gray and black ceramic with 24-hour graduation, embellished with PVD-applied platinum details. One variant features the classic Oyster bracelet, the other the Jubilee bracelet.

The dials, lacquered black, display the "GMT-Master II" inscription in green, recalling the color of the 24-hour hand, a distinctive element of the model. The GMT-Master II is equipped with the caliber 3285 movement, which offers advanced horological features such as the display of a second time zone in 24-hour format and the date, in addition to the hour, minutes and seconds. This model also holds the Superlative Chronometer certification, a symbol of the exceptional performance that each Rolex watch guarantees on the wrist.

The GMT-Master, originally designed as a navigational aid intended for professionals traveling the world, has over time become a reference among travelers' watches. Its design is unique and instantly recognizable, with a bidirectional rotating bezel equipped with a 24-hour graduated disc. The latter has been declined in a two-tone version with different color combinations - where the lower half symbolizes the hours of the day and the upper half, the hours of the night - or in a monochrome version. The GMT-Master, an authentic watch-instrument, has undergone constant evolutions to offer increasingly advanced technical performance. In 1982 Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, equipped with a caliber that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the minute hand and the 24-hour hand. The GMT-Master II, with a traditional hour, minute and seconds hand display, 24-hour hand with triangle tip and bidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated Cerachrom 24-hour disc, per- mits the simultaneous reading of the time of two time zones: local time and a reference time, or local time and the time of another time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time display.

Rolex boasts a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for the manufacture of one-piece bezels and one-piece bezel discs. These materials, which are particularly resistant to scratches, exhibit unalterable colors of a rare intensity. In addition, due to the nature of their chemical composition, these high-tech ceramics are inert and corrosion-proof. The Brand has developed exclusive and innovative skills and manufacturing methods thanks to which it produces its ceramic components with absolute independence.

In the new declinations of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotating bezel features a two-tone Cerachrom graduated 24-hour disc in gray and black ceramic. The graduations and hollowed numerals are colored by platinum deposition using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) technique. Thanks to the knurled edge that provides excellent grip, the bezel can be comfortably manipulated. The Oyster case of the GMT-Master II, 40 mm in diameter and guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters, is an example of robustness and reliability. The case middle of the presented declinations is machined from a solid block of Oystersteel.

The thin-grooved case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool; thus, only Rolex-certified watchmakers can access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, equipped with a triple waterproofing system and protected by special straps cut into the case middle, is securely screwed to the case. The crystal, topped by the Cyclope magnifying lens at 3 o'clock to make it easier to read the date, is virtually scratch-resistant sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective treatment. The Oyster case, completely waterproof, optimally protects the movement it houses.

The GMT-Master II is equipped with caliber 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, unveiled in 2018 and introduced in the model the same year. This mechanical self-winding movement, a quintessential piece of technology, ensures high performance, particularly in the areas of precision, autonomy, comfort of use and reliability.

Caliber 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which con- temporarily guarantees high energy efficiency and extremely safe operation. Made of nickel-phosphor, this escapement resists high magnetic fields. The movement also includes the blue Parachrom balance spring, manufactured by Rolex from a paramagnetic alloy. This hairspring also boasts great stability with respect to temperature changes and high shock resistance, and is equipped with a Rolex terminal curve that ensures regularity in every position. The regulating organ is mounted on the high-performance Paraflex shock-absorbing device, developed by the Brand and patented, which gives the movement greater shock resistance. As for the oscillating weight, the latter is equipped with an optimized ball bearing from 2023.

Caliber 3285 is powered by an automatic winding system with a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to the architecture of its barrel and the superior performance of its escapement, it boasts a power reserve of about 70 hours.

The GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Cerachrom bezel disc in gray and black ceramic is paired with an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, the Oyster bracelet is a three-row metal bracelet distinguished by its sturdiness; it is still the most popular bracelet among watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection. Supple and comfortable, the Jubilee bracelet is a five-row metal bracelet; it was created specifically for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust, launched in 1945.

The Oyster bracelet and Jubilee bracelet of the GMT-Master II feature an Oysterlock safety clasp with folding clasp that prevents any inadvertent opening. Both feature the Easylink quick extension link, developed by Rolex, which makes it easy to adjust the length of the bracelet by about 5 mm.

 

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