Amsterdam Vintage Watches is a growing player in the vintage watch scene, based in the heart of Amsterdam. Started as a family business, it now boasts a solid international reputation and is followed by thousands of fans on social media, particularly on Instagram and YouTube, where it offers original content and guides dedicated to collecting.
One of its best-known faces is Rutger Kooijman, head of sales & buying activities: a watch enthusiast from a young age, he stands out for his open-minded approach to new trends and his ability to intercept the tastes of an increasingly young clientele.
Interview by Paolo Gobbi
Rutger Kooijman tells us how Amsterdam Vintage Watches has chosen to focus on quality, public education and a "fresh" approach to collecting, in a city that has always been a crossroads of cultures and innovation. There is no shortage of trivia about rare watches, travel anecdotes (such as that of a Patek Philippe 6098 found in Italy) and reflections on how the Dutch market differs from the Italian market-and from the American or Asian markets. It's a mix of passion, expertise and an international outlook that makes Amsterdam Vintage Watches a point of reference for experienced collectors and novices looking for truly special watches.
What do you look for when choosing a watch for Amsterdam Vintage Watches?
"To be honest, we are still a fairly young team, as much as we have been working in this industry for a few years now. We call ourselves a bit of a 'newcomer,' so we are looking for watches that stand out and can attract a slightly younger clientele.
Many traditional dealers, with decades of experience, are focused on collectible classics (vintage Submariner, GMT, Daytona, etc.). There are already plenty of professionals selling these types of watches. We, on the other hand, are interested in to propose something different and a little less traditional, to intercept different tastes and a new audience."
Can you tell us about a rare watch that you recently found? Does it have a particular story?
"We recently bought and sold a steel Patek Philippe 6098, a watch in amazing condition, practically as good as new. We bought it from a gentleman in Italy who, together with his father, ran a sort of pawn shop near a casino.
Back in the day, people who lost large sums at the casino would go to them to sell or pawn their watches. It often happened that gold watches were melted down, while steel watches, along with various spare parts, were kept. Over the years a small collection was built up in the safe, which now, from time to time, this gentleman decides to sell. The specimens he offers us are always in really excellent condition. It's wonderful for us to have access to such a little treasure like this."
What do Amsterdam Vintage Watches and Bonano Roma have in common as leaders in their respective markets?
"I think for both of us, the trust we have gained over the years is crucial. We are very visible on social media, and we put our faces on it: we run YouTube channels, Instagram, and they do the same at Bonano, where Gianluca and Giovanni often appear in the first person. This approach helps to establish a transparent relationship with customers. That way they know that if they buy from us or from Bonano, they are on the safe side. And if there's ever any problem, they know they can count on us."
What differences do you see between the Dutch and Italian markets for vintage watches?
"Italy has a long tradition of collecting, since the 1980s and 1990s, with great admirers of vintage watches and important references, such as Rolex "Paul Newman" watches. In the Netherlands, until a decade ago, there was no real culture of vintage watch collecting.
We at Amsterdam Vintage Watches are committed to growing this market by attracting a younger audience. As a result, there is not the same "hard core" of traditional collectors here as in Italy. It is an evolving market, more related to trends and fashions, also because they are often younger buyers, with a different budget and a "fresher" propensity to buy."
How do European collectors differ from Asian or American collectors?
"I tell the truth: as a trading company, we are often pleased to sell to American or Asian collectors because they tend to spend more easily. However, I think in Europe there is a deeper understanding of the vintage market. We talk about more "sophisticated" enthusiasts, perhaps because in Europe the culture of the collectible watch has been ingrained longer.
In contrast, in certain parts of Asia or the United States it is a phenomenon that exploded later, and it may happen that there is less attention to the details of originality and preservation, or that people buy more on impulse. Then, of course, there are competent collectors everywhere, but statistically I have noticed this difference."
How do you handle the needs of experienced and novice collectors?
"One of the strengths of Amsterdam Vintage Watches is the willingness to educate our clientele, especially new customers. Since we started, we have produced YouTube videos, tutorials, and content on social media, explaining the basics to younger people, those who were 16-25 years old and looking for perhaps their first Rolex Datejust. Thus, a watch that cost 3-4 thousand euros became an "affordable" purchase in terms of collectibles.
We went down this road because it made no sense to try to sell very rare references to seasoned collectors right away; there were already ultra-specialized dealers. Instead, we positioned ourselves as the "new generation," focusing on passion and outreach."
How do your personal tastes influence the company's purchases?
"There are three of us in the company: me, Jasper and Ramon. We are all very different: Jasper is so passionate that, if it were up to him, we would buy watches every day without ever reselling them, because he would like to keep them! Ramon and I, on the other hand, are a bit more commercial: we evaluate which watches are interesting on the market and marketing side.
In the end it's a good balance: Jasper thinks like a pure collector, Ramon and I pay more attention to the business side. All this allows us to balance the buying and selling choices well."
What interesting trends do you see in today's collecting?
"After the boom of a few years ago, with sky-high price lists and a market that was a bit "fomented" by certain models, I now see a return to more particular but still affordable watches.
For example, references with stone dials, gem-sets, special bracelets are making a comeback: watches that are a bit "funky" and not necessarily the usual Daytona or Submariner in steel. They often cost less than the great classics and allow you to stand out. So you don't happen to walk into a restaurant and see ten other people with the same model. It's an interesting trend for new collectors, who find more sustainable prices and more unique models."
Collecting or investing: which is more important to you?
"Personally, I find that passion comes first. If one collects quality watches in good condition, the investment pays off in the long run. If, on the other hand, one only thinks about making money, one often loses sight of the fundamentals: authenticity, condition, provenance.
It happens that one looks for the lowest offer on the net, only to find out that the watch has replaced or refitted parts. So you risk losing money. Instead, those who buy out of love and choose carefully usually get a good deal in the end, too.
As we always say: the best investment is the joy of collecting. If the watch depreciates in value, at least the pleasure of wearing it remains."
Have you ever kept a watch for yourself? Do you collect on a personal level?
"I'm not a real collector. If you compare me to Jasper, he would keep all the watches! I am more minimalist and often wear the same watch for months. I see so many watches every day for work and, in the long run, I "get used to" and become less passionate about owning them permanently. So no, I don't hoard or have a major collection."
What is the watch that, in your opinion, every collector should have? In Italy, almost everyone starts with the Submariner...
"It is the classic Rolex "first sportsman." In Holland it is different, but I would still recommend a Rolex Day-Date: a watch for everyday wear, available in many variations, at a relatively affordable price when compared to other very high-end timepieces. For 15-25 thousand euros you can find a great quality Day-Date. And it's a piece that gives enormous satisfaction without having to spend crazy amounts of money."
What are the future goals of Amsterdam Vintage Watches?
"Over time we have changed our approach. We used to do a lot of marketing on YouTube and social media, aiming for a fairly high volume of sales (even over 100 pieces per month), but it was likely to become difficult to maintain certain quality standards.
Today we focus on a smaller number of clients, say 15-20 'loyal' collectors with whom we work with to buy and sell watches, almost as if we were managing their collections. It is more fulfilling: we deal in rare pieces and work with super passionate people with whom there is daily contact. It's different from just selling a watch to people you never see again."
Last question: what can Amsterdam Vintage Watches and Bonano Roma learn from each other?
"Bonano has tremendous experience, accumulated over many years in the business, and this is reflected in the type of clientele, which is often more "historical" or older in age. We, on the other hand, often cater to collectors in their 20s and 30s.
I think we can learn so much from Bonano's experience in handling prestigious collections and a more traditional audience. On the other hand, we can probably teach them something in terms of digital marketing, social media, and approaching a younger target audience.
If we combine their experience and customer base with our expertise in online marketing and communication, we can really offer a full service to all kinds of collectors."
Thank you so much for your time, Rutger!
"Thank you! It was a pleasure."
