Wulf Schütz, one of the leading collectors of Stella dials (he has owned about 80), codified the evolution of the dial into four main series. A fifth type, unofficial but documented by several specimens, was added in the 1990s. The series are distinguished by shape, lettering, minutiae, and references.
The first series is the most iconic and hard to find: pie-pan dials, slightly concave outward, mounted on 180X references. The second is flat, with "T Swiss T" lettering at six o'clock, on 180X and 1803X cases, produced until the late 1970s. The third series, inscribed "T Swiss Made T," is associated with models with five digits (180XX) and quick-set. The fourth series can be recognized by its binary minute track and Roman numerals every five minutes. All series could feature gold hour markers, brilliant-cut or baguette diamonds, or even full diamond dials by special request.
The unofficial fifth series includes Stella dials mounted on cases from the 1990s. Some are entirely authentic: in fact, Rolex allowed official dealers to assemble earlier dials on new cases upon request.
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