Today we have the honor of interviewing two key figures of the famous Maison Breguet: Lionel a Marca, appointed only a few days ago CEO of Breguet, and Emmanuel Breguet, Vice President and Director of Heritage. In this conversation, we will explore the deep connection between Breguet and the world of aviation, a relationship rooted in the history of the Maison and the Breguet family itself. We will also discuss new creations, such as the Type XX in gold and ceramic, and future prospects for the collection.
An extraordinary opportunity to discover the secrets and evolution of a brand that continues to innovate in the world of watchmaking.
Can you remind us of the connection between aviation and Montres Breguet?
Emmanuel Breguet: Breguet has responded to the needs of the aviation world from the very beginning. Traditionally, the House has always gone hand in hand with technical progress. After watches for sea navigation, it was natural to develop watches for air navigation. On the other hand, let us not forget that one of the great aircraft manufacturers of the time was a certain Louis Breguet, a descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Even though the Breguet family had sold the watch brand, they still maintained contact with the Maison, and there is no doubt that Louis Breguet played an outreach role that paid off.
Why launch a gold and ceramic creation?
Lionel to Brand: Searching through our archives, we discovered three outstanding examples of the first generation Type XX in gold. We are fortunate to have a very rich heritage, including the Type XX, which is an invaluable source of inspiration. After the launch of a steel model, it was essential to offer a gold model for our customers who are more accustomed to wearing it. Ceramic, on the other hand, is a real novelty in our collections! I love its characteristics: it is light, resistant and unscratchable... An ideal material for a sporty and elegant watch! Finally, the contrast between the rose gold case and the midnight blue color of the dial and bezel give a very strong character to the watch.
The collection welcomes a new Type XX: does this mean the line is set to grow?
Lionel to Brand: That's our goal. Last year we laid the foundation for the Type XX collection with the civilian and military versions. Now we want to expand the line by offering different variations in terms of materials and sizes. I would like to emphasize that the complications in this collection have a connection to the aviation universe. For me, it is essential to maintain a certain consistency in each Breguet line.
Do you have an anecdote to share about the gold models found in the archives?
Emmanuel Breguet: In early 1955, after Breguet had received a very large order for 1100 examples of the "military Type 20" from the French Air Force the year before and was engaged in delivering the first batch of 250 pieces, creative ferment was more active than ever. Why not turn it into a luxury civilian model? In fact, three curious creations appear, equipped with a gold case and a graduated rotating bezel with blue enameled numerals! Two of these references are Type 20 (with a 30-minute counter), while the third is a Type XX (with a 15-minute counter). The differences do not stop there: soon one of the models is fitted with a yellow gold bracelet mounted a few months after sale; the second retains a leather strap with a gold folding clasp; and the third is limited to a leather strap with a gold pin buckle. The three timepieces, however, which can be described as experimental, will never be marketed... The Breguet museum managed to regain possession of one of the three. The second-generation Type XX will never know any gold variant. It would have to wait for forty years and the arrival of the third-generation Type XX to see models of all kinds appear in profusion in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum in the second half of the 1990s.
Lionel a Marca was appointed CEO of Breguet last Aug. 12
Active as early as 2019 for the Maison, Lionel a Marca joined Swatch Group nearly 30 years ago. His commitment and excellent skills in all areas of watchmaking led him to integrate the Management of Blancpain in 2004, that of Harry Winston in 2014, and the expanded General Management of Swatch Group in 2019.
Today he puts all his experience and passion for Haute Horlogerie at the service of Breguet. He thus resumes the Operational Management under the chairmanship of Marc A. Hayek, with whom he has worked closely for more than 20 years. "Lionel's appointment to Brand, a pure watchmaker at the bosom of a Maison as prestigious as Breguet, marks a new stage in its history. I am sure that he will apply all his energy to continue the work that my grandfather began at the time of the buyback in 1999, while at the same time making the pioneering spirit of its founder survive," comments Marc A. Hayek.variants in terms of materials and size. I would like to emphasize that the complications in this collection have a connection to the aviation universe. For me, it is essential to maintain a certain consistency in each Breguet line.
