It has been since 1839 that Patek Philippe, heir and guardian of Geneva's prestigious watchmaking tradition, has been working to preserve and pass on the totality of the ancient High Craftsmanship skills that have embellished the decoration of timepieces for nearly five centuries. The four generations of the Stern family, at the helm of the company since 1932, have shared with equal dedication the mission of safeguarding these priceless skills.
True to its "tradition of innovation," the Manufacture has taken on the task of advancing such extraordinary techniques, expanding the boundaries of the possible and drawing inspiration from the most varied sources. Each year, the union of virtuosity and creativity takes shape in new collections of unique pieces and limited series.
Since the beginnings of mechanical watchmaking, master craftsmen have embellished timepieces, which were initially not so much reliable and accurate instruments as true objets d'art. The many decorative techniques found an ideal environment in Geneva, within a network of small workshops housed on the upper floors of buildings where all watchmaking-related activities were concentrated, known as the "Fabrique." Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe, heir to this Geneva tradition, has always collaborated with skilled masters to elevate its creations. During the 1870s and 1880s, at a time marked by a significant decrease in demand for such watches and the imminent risk of extinction of various ancient techniques, the manufactory, with a pioneering drive, undertook to preserve this valuable knowledge, particularly illuminated enamel painting.
Today, Patek Philippe is committed to passing on, enhancing and projecting these skills into the future, working with its craftsmen to constantly push the boundaries of what is possible. The manufacture also supports the evolution of new forms of craftsmanship applied to watchmaking. As a testament to the importance attached to these expressions of High Craftsmanship (known internationally as the "Rare Handcrafts collection"), Patek Philippe has dedicated ample space to them in the grand production building in Plan-les-Ouates (Geneva), which will be completed in spring 2020.
To celebrate the refinement and splendor of such techniques, each year Patek Philippe offers a collection of unique pieces and limited editions, in which the most varied savoir-faire converges: pocket watches (equipped with exclusive mounts), wrist models (Calatrava, Golden Ellipse, ladies' minute repeater, Nautilus Ladies) and Dôme pendulums. Sources of inspiration range from nature, art, and cultural traditions of the five continents.
The Rare Handcrafts collection in 2023 dedicates a series of timepieces to racing, including the Calatrava wristwatches Ref. 5189G-001 "Grand Prix des Nations - 1948" and Ref. 5189G-011 "Rallye des Alpes - 1956" (Alpine Cup visible in photo), with dials that combine cloisonné and paillonné enamel to depict the cars in the foreground and miniature painting on enamel for the landscapes in the background.
ALPS RALLYE 1956
Year 2023 - ref. 5189G-011
Calatrava wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial, paillonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel
This limited edition of ten commemorates the legendary Rallye delle Alpi, which has become one of the most prestigious international events in the world of motorsports since 1950.
The race cars in the foreground are made of Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, using about 55 cm of gold wire (~0.44 g) with a cross section of 0.10 x 0.45 mm and 16 enamel colors, mostly translucent but also opalescent or opaque. A silver leaf, inserted under the translucent enamel (paillonné enamel), brings out the race number on the car at the top.
The strikingly realistic alpine landscape in the background is entirely executed with miniature paint on enamel. Each dial required an average of 12 firings at a temperature of about 820°C. The openworked hands and strap are reminiscent of racing drivers' gloves.
A Clous de Paris (studded) motif adorns the bezel. The white gold case has a sapphire crystal case back, protected by a hinged dust cover, offering a confidential view of the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240. The dust cover is engraved with the words "Rallye des Alpes - 1956."
QUADRANT
- Grand Feu cloisonné enamel
- Miniature painting on enamel
- Paillonné enamel
- 55 cm of gold wire (~0.44 g) with 0.10 x 0.45 mm section
- 16 colors of opaque, translucent and opalescent enamel
- 12 firings at about 820°C
- Dauphine hands in white gold, pierced and rhodium-plated
CASE
- White gold
- Bezel with stud pattern, hand-guilloché
- Sapphire crystal case back protected by hinged dust cover
- Diameter: 38.6 mm
- Thickness: 9 mm
STRAP
- Hand-stitched calfskin leather, vintage khaki color
- White gold pin buckle
In 2024, the collection was also "kidnapped" by the "American Dream," which conquered the Dôme 20155M-001 "Trains américains" (American Trains) pendant, with its locomotives and New York skyscrapers in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel where the windows are illuminated by silver paillons (straws) beneath the translucent enamel. Four Calatrava wristwatches depict the most beautiful American cars of the 1960s, with landscapes of the U.S. West Coast as a backdrop.
AMERICAN BEAUTIES
Year 2024 - ref. 5089G-146
Calatrava wristwatches with cloisonné enamel dials, paillonné enamel, and miniature painting on enamel
These are four limited editions with different subjects and references of 15 each, inviting you to relive the legend of the most fascinating American automobiles of the 1960s, in an atmosphere that evokes the West Coast of the United States.
The contours of the cars, depicted in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, required 30 to 58.6 cm of gold wire (~0.13 to 0.25 g) with a cross section of 0.05 x 0.40 mm. To do full justice to the brilliance of the bodies, the enamel craftsman employed 21 to 53 shades of translucent, semi-opaque and opaque enamels. The headlights, illuminated by silver leaf embedded under the enamel using the paillonné technique, add a touch of realism. Miniature painting on enamel, applied with 6 to 11 colors in tiny brush strokes, created the landscape backgrounds with their warm, slightly "burnt" tones. Each dial required 8 firings at a temperature of about 800°C.
Dauphine-style white gold hands with central openwork carving complete the dial.
The white gold case has a sapphire crystal case back, protected by a hinged dust cover, which offers a discreet view of the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240.
The natural-grain taurillon leather straps, each handmade, are available in dark blue, light blue, garnet, or orange, all with cream stitching, and are complemented by a white gold pin buckle.
QUADRANTI
- Grand Feu cloisonné enamel
- Paillonné enamel
- Miniature painting on enamel
- 30 to 58.6 cm of gold wire (~0.13 to 0.25 g) with 0,05 x 0.40 mm
- From 21 to 53 translucent, semi-opaque and opaque enamel colors
- 8 firings at 800°C
- Dauphine hands in white gold with pierced central notch
CASES
- White gold
- Sapphire glass back protected by hinged dust cover
- Diameter: 38.6 mm
- Thickness: 9 mm
STRAPS
- Hand-stitched, natural-grain taurillon leather in dark blue, light blue, garnet, or orange
- White gold buckle
Techniques featured in the "Rare Handcrafts" collection.
Hand engraving
Hand engraving, the oldest form of decorative art related to the embellishment of timepieces, along with its various techniques(taille-douce, bas-relief, etc.) is used to decorate case backs, dials, hands, bezels and rings.
The Grand Feu cloisonné enamel
This technique long used in watchmaking creates decorations with sparkling, unalterable colors. The craftsman traces the pattern with a thin gold wire before filling the alveoli with translucent, opaque, semi-opaque or opalescent enamels.
The illuminated painting on enamel
This technique, a great Genevan specialty since the 17th century, allows small point-by-point paintings to be made with the help of a tiny brush and enamel powders mixed with lavender oil, on a white enamel background.
The paillonné nail polish
This traditional technique involves incorporating small motifs(paillons) under the translucent enamel, made from gold or silver leaves, which will be visible in transparency and illuminate the decoration.
Hand guillochage and flinqué glaze
Hand guillochage involves carving delicate geometric decorations into the metal support with ancient hand-operated machines. These patterns, coated with translucent enamel ( flinqué enamel ), create eye-catching plays of relief and light.
The champlevé glaze
This ancient technique involves digging cavities in the thickness of the metal plate and then filling these alveoli with enamel by successive firings.
The "blanc de Limoges" grisaille enamel.
In this technique, which originated in France, "blanc de Limoges" (an oil-based glaze) is molded with a tiny brush and needle onto a dark-colored glaze base to achieve elegant camaïeu.
Longwy's glazes on porcelain
In this technique that has made the town of Longwy (northeastern France) famous, the craftsman draws the outlines of the pattern with a black stroke, then fills in the alveoli with brush and colors to create a slight relief.
The wood inlay
This sophisticated technique, which Patek Philippe introduced on dials and case backs, gives rise to small depictions composed of several hundred tiny wood tiles of different essences, grains and colors.
The setting
The setting of diamonds and other precious stones, such as blue topazes, illuminate the bezels of Calatrava wristwatches. The 18-karat gold pocket watch mounts, made entirely by hand, are also embellished with a wide variety of stones in carefully selected colors.
