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Unclassified vintage Watches

The Zenith The First Reference 386

of Jewellery Bonanno

The Zenith The First Reference 386

When we talk about great watches, those that time but above all their intrinsic qualities have made immortal in the eyes of enthusiasts and lovers, the watches belonging to the Gotha of the most important brands in the world such as those generated by the triad Rolex, Patek Philippe ed Audemars Piguet.

But in the iconographic scale of the great watches, timepieces produced by others deserve a special place House come Omega, IWC, Tudor O Panerai, just to name a few more in sparse order which, although not enjoying absolute planetary success, have left their mark with productions of absolute and equal importance.

And today the Jewellery Bonanno would like to present one of these watches of decisive absolute value, produced by a top level company such as Zenith and which has had enormous success, the result of an agreement between the Swiss company and the prestigious one Casa d´Aste Phillips in association with the Bacs & Russo: we will talk about Zenith El Primero Revival Referenza A386.

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The birth of history.

The history of Zenith it is decidedly exciting, the result of the visionary ability of Georges Favre-Jacot and his intuition that today we might even call trivial but that at the time, in the 1800s, proved to be revolutionary and successful.

We are in Le Locle, a small town near Neuchatel, therefore in Switzerland and ours Georges Favre-Jacot tries to understand how to get to produce the best watches in the world.

Observing the production chain in his town but also in the neighboring areas, Georges Favre-Jacot he realizes that it is at least daring to produce the best mechanism or clock in the world when the craftsmen do not work in the same warehouse.

Not only. Note that the artisans are scattered in the various shops or in their own shops but above all they do not talk to each other! How can a product with such a complex mechanism be improved if those who produce it, in whole or in part, do not compare themselves with a colleague to make it better?

We are in 1865[1] and, as an authentic visionary, Georges Favre-Jacot it undertakes economically both to build large, spacious and bright buildings, and to bring together all the craftsmen in the area under one roof, thus making it possible to control every single piece and the complete mechanism!

Inevitably the results come! The concentration of production in one place clearly advances all the technique and the production chain, thus was born House Zenith. Even today that place is still the company's headquarters.

We are at the end of the 19th century and this is the period in which Zenith presents its first chronograph movement. But the new century is coming with the progressive growth of industry and with it the importance of precise measurement of time rises dramatically, indispensable in the diffusion of new production techniques.

Yes, the industry controls its manufacturing times per second, the car with the internal combustion engine is now in full development and, to make matters worse, the armed forces of the West are increasingly increasing the demand for technical chronographs.

Here, therefore, for wrist watches, and not only, antimagnetic and anti-dust systems, also telemetric scales to establish the distance of the enemy as well as function flyback for pilots.

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The historic El Primero caliber is born!

Thus, at the end of the 60'swhile the world economy is in full swing boom, the Zenith displaces the world of chronograph measurement by producing a integrated automatic chronograph with column wheel, and he, is the mythical caliber El Primero: the first high-frequency series mechanical caliber capable of measuring the tenth of a second!

The world of time measurement is amazed by the perfection of the mechanism and the frequency of its balance, the real secret of this masterpiece. In fact, while all the other rockers oscillate, at best, at a rate of 8 alternations per secondthe Caliber El Primero makes 10, always in a second!

It is so amazing that too Rolex, one of the historical competitors of the Zenith, when it launches in the 1988 its new, flamboyant Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona astonishing the world, it replaced the historic manual winding caliber of the Valjoux just with the excellent Zenith El Primero Chronograph Movement automatic winding: it is the consecration of the undisputed quality of a chronograph which is by far the best industrial chronograph movement on the market at that time!

But as in any great story that respects itself, there is always an aspect that has an unusually legendary in its plots. It so happens that the Zenith, which thanks to First In the meantime, he has gained respect for the watchmaking world and market shares also as a supplier to competing firms, however he decides to switch to quartz chronograph movements in the 70s following an external acquisition that changes the old one management and, the corporate mission.

So you decide to to destroy the party he necessary tools Per to execute i mechanical movements of First!

But a watchmaker specialized in chronograph movements and engaged in the unparalleled production chain Motion, Charles Vermot, we deny this act to say the least rash, thus hiding the tools necessary for the manufacture, as well as the components of the same chronograph before everything is destroyed forever: never what was wiser!

Yes, because in 1984 he returned them to Zenith so that it could be reproduced again First as was done 16 years before, thus allowing the product to be returned to the world of the watch, which was feared to be extinct as it was known!

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A historic, exciting anniversary!

So a great one Chronograph movement mechanical and, as we mentioned before, a movement so incredibly effective, clean, infallible in its indicating the passage of time that deserved something important with the approach of its 50th anniversary.

So here, almost like a bolt of lightning, at the beginning of autumn 2019, the Zenith announces the presentation of a watch “One-Off”, a unique piece Zenith The First References A386 revival platinum.

a single piece, the first of three models created in collaboration between the prestigious Phillips Auction House in association with the Bacs & Russo and with the same Zenith: a historical collaboration between one House production with a large auction house, never before!

It is however on 9 November 2019, during a The Geneva Watch Auction X, that the precious necklace in platinum PT 95o, as well as the first of its kind to have a dial with gods Stunning lapis lazuli[2], is sold for 250,000 Swiss Francs![3]

But it does not end here! Indeed, after the presentation of this unmatched One-Off, Zenith E Phillips (or rather, the section Phillips Watch Department), have decided not to interrupt their collaboration but to continue, creating even two others El Primero Reference Chronographs A386 but, be careful, limited to 69 pieces in total, always in honor of the year of birth of caliber El Primero.

At this point, however, a question arose: how to reproduce today in a single watch how much historical, beautiful and functional it has expressed over time itself First?

The management of the two companies therefore decided to take a step back in time and immerse themselves in the atmosphere of Le Locle in 1969, identifying with the graphic designer and designer of the Zenith of that time.

And the result is above all an extraordinary one First in yellow gold Reference A386 with a superb black dial with counters contrasting gold: such a striking contrast, loved by the watch collector community for its look magnificent, clean and incisive and, although not something original in itself, different from any other product previously from Zenith.

A version in stainless steel, with a look of chromatic combinations typical of high fashion fabrics as well as of design of the home interiors of the 1960s. But there is also the quality of the counters, superimposed as in the first reference Zenith The First ever.

Therefore, being a limited series, they are produced 20 in Yellow gold E 48 in Steel, in addition to One-Off beaten at the auction we mentioned above in platinum.

So, it is with great pride that We of the Jewellery Bonanno we present one of the 20 pieces produced in yellow gold.

We therefore identify i strengths of this fantastic Watch.

First of all the fact that this piece of, come his 19 brothers be perfect in the size of his Case like the first 1969 product, therefore with a case reproduced in 38 mm. in oro 18 kt. and that, another strong point, has the historical, authentic inside Chronograph movement automatic, mechanical The First 400 with column wheel.

And then there are the details, and what details!

We have one Case in Yellow gold from total diameter of 38 mm. waterproof, with a Diameter of opening of 30,05 mm. and the thickness of 12,60 mm., able to withstand the pressure of 5 atmospheres.

The caseback and the Glass that protect ours El Primero A386 Revival in Yellow gold I am in Sapphire crystal transparent, with treatment antireflection on both sides but on the caseback, the prestigious logo of the Phillips. In addition, to give a touch of very high style, here is a fine frieze, engraved circularly on the external case, the one adjacent to the rear sapphire crystal, where two dates are visible between two stylized stars: 1969-2019.

The Quadrant, true highlight of this jewel, is lacquered in Black with Counters of gold color while, inside, the hour markers are gold plated, faceted and coated in Super Luminova SLN in color Beige. The hands they are also plated in Gold and work exactly like the indices described above.

The Functions are clearly visible on the Quadrant, clean and very clear. The Chronograph has the hand of the same centrally while the counter of the hours is placed ad ore 6 and that of 30 minutes ad ore 3. Clear presence of the tachymeter scale and indication of the calendar all ore 4:30. Finally, golden writing on two levels Zenith - The First, under the ore 12.

The Motion itself is of 30 mm. of Diameter, caliber 13 ¼ and the thickness of 6,6 mm. for a total of well 278 components, including well 31 sapphires. Frequency is the amazing measure of outrigger The 36.000 VpH A 5 Hz while the Power reserve it is minimal 50 ore.

Finally, the Strap is in Skin of brown calfskin with a rubber protection that guarantees its durability while the Buckle ad Barb is in Yellow gold.

External sources:
[1] http://signoridegliorologi.tgcom24.it/2013/01/11/la-storia-delle-case-zenith/
[2] https://watchilove.com/phillips-in-association-with-bacs-russo-presents-two-exclusive-zenith-el-primero-limited-edition-chronographs-designed-by-phillips
[3] https://www.phillips.com/detail/zenith/CH080219/136