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Unclassified vintage Watches

The first perpetual calendar Patek Philippe 1518, 2499, 3970 and 5970

of Jewellery Bonanno

The first perpetual calendar Patek Philippe 1518, 2499, 3970 and 5970

How many people can claim to know the age of the production of very first perpetual calendar chronograph produced in series? If you do not, do not worry. You get there by logic, as taught in the world Sir. Arthur Conan Doyle through its wondrous tales it "The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes" where the deduction and reasoning always led to the solution of the enigma, difficult to solve for anyone.

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And the logic leads us to infer that this production is attributable to the House Swiss Most prestigious according to many admirers, the Patek Philippe, Which he decided to pair its commercial fortunes to the realization of a chronograph with perpetual calendar almost like a real business card, to be shown in time.

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the Jewellery Bonanno, for more than 30 years on the market Vintage, Wishes to offer to the endless and growing nation of fans and collectors a dynamic reconstruction, dressed up with some particularly tasty, as of this Reference has characterized not only the history of the clock wrist but at the same time the technological and stylistic address search to it strictly dependent.

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We are back in 1941 and the Patek Philippe, Already in vogue for the high rate of research in the development of its mechanisms so complex but perfectly functional, launches the reference 1518 with such features, perhaps unaware that this timepiece would become a only the production history of the watches produced in series and a high rate of complexity: the first step in a historical journey not only for the brand but also for any specific industry generally. In fact it had already been produced and launched 1526The first perpetual calendar made at the World Series. But the 1518 is most famous as it is the first chronograph with perpetual calendar produced in the world series.

Always according to a reconstruction true enough, but never 100% confirmed and in contrast with the idea of Patek Philippe always looking for something excellent to stand out, in 1941 a clock from such a high level of complication could only have ordered a large piece of the Highest bourgeoisie or even the military world: in the end was just started the 2nd World War !!

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Today is really different. The complication of the movement is no longer almost distinctiveness between the wristwatch manufacturer (the design is done on the computer and not with stones and hand drawings ...), but in the 1941 This Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 It was truly a jewel of the evolution of watchmaking in as little as 35 mm. of solid matter, what today might be called a kind of killer application in computer science!

That's why this movement of House Swiss will become in fact the whole of a long production at least 70 years of design scheme, relying on a dial inside two double openings all ore 12, two chronograph registers all ore 3 E 9, a Moon phase at the bottom and to the ore 6 a circular dater. At its interior is also a movement to pregiava 23 jewelsAlways of the highest level Valjoux ranked 13th by that Swiss company.

Also, while the 1518 It is really the original chronograph with perpetual calendar and the absolute foundation of this incredible line, is not necessarily the most desirable reference in its entirety. To observe carefully, case by 35 mm. and square buttons tend to make it a chronograph man something modern and everyday wear.

But to compensate for this aspect is that the Patek Philippe 1518 To date there are very few working around the world and mostly are Yellow gold. Other, but in smaller numbers, they are Rose gold and a real rarity are the ones left Steel. It is only four of these specimens in stainless steel and they are considered Some of the most valuable watches and rarest in the world. All were made during the war years and all four can be seen in detail in the historic book John Goldberger.

These clocks are therefore nothing short of impossible to quote, except that the house of aste Phillips He recently beats one for the record number of well 11 Million Swiss Francs !!

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The Patek Philippe Reference 2499

in 1954 ends production of Patek Philippe 1518 and then 13 years comes the 2499. In fact the new model 2499 It seems to have been launched a little earlier, in 1951 to be precise, which would explain why the first specimens of 2499 together they have been made to the last pieces of the 1518, Which have an end date production dated precisely 1954. It will be one of the longest-running clocks ever in the world, with nearly 35 years of total production, a true icon in the industry because it will be produced in a few numerical examples.

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The Patek Philippe 2499 It is considered by many industry experts the last one Patek Philippe, That is, the timepiece that captures both the charm of the old world if combined with already more modern fit, projected evolution of a now free time by military conflicts in the West and who wants to savor the beauty of life by living it with different eyes. But above all, the Patek Philippe 2499 is probably the most studied and analyzed in perpetual chronographs Patek Philippe.

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Visually, the first set of Patek Philippe 2499 more striking because it has a case diameter 37,5 mm., Widening the clock prospect cleanly and imposing than its ancestor (35 mm.), Among other things, considered by many to be the perfect size to this day for a box on the wrist. It also has square buttons and a dial with Arabic numerals applied to a tachometer. In short, even if you carefully observe the hands, we find that the Patek Philippe 2499 It is quite similar to its predecessor 1518. Everything is produced in Yellow gold but also, in small numbers, in Rose gold. Existing also duplicate in platinum.

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After this first series, Patek Philippe changes the design codes in sharply second series of the 2499 (Produced from the mid-50s), in third (Roughly from 1960 to 1978, then the most widespread in the world and automatically the less valuable), and also in fourth series, an index of a constant evolution facing the canons of a modern almost deliberately accelerated more than desired. An example? Net rounding of the buttons in the Chronograph second series. Or the exclusion of the tachymeter scale on the dial with Arabic numerals in the third and fourth series. In addition to being the most common, the third series therefore, does not have a speedometer, it uses a baton markers for hours, round buttons but retains acrylic crystal of his predecessors. If you want to then identify which belongs to a series patek Philippe 2499, Just look at the dial!

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Wanting then to learn as is the style of Jewellery Bonanno, The difference between a Patek Philippe 2499 of the third O fourth actually is minimal series. In fact, many consider 2499 of fourth almost like a kind of series “middle of the road”, That is, a half clock between the sacred realm of Vintage and the modern. Produced between 1978 and 1985, fourth series the Patek Philippe 2499 (Who has since taken the reference 2499/100), differs from the third series because it uses a refined Sapphire crystal in caseback.

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Little to say so in the technical detail of very relevant, if anything there is to highlight how the economic value of Patek Philippe 2499 It has grown quickly. The professional evaluators quoting a pink gold watch over one million dollars, but if you have, for example, a signature Cartier on the dial, the value goes over a million dollars. And then there is the "platinum" factor.

The Patek Philippe 2499 century, it is only production Yellow gold E pink and nothing in Steel but in platinum. In fact we are talking about only two specimens of platinum 2499/100 in the world, both made on direct commission from the owner, Sig. Stern the same in 1985. One would be in possession of the owners family SternWhich exposes it without fanfare within their museum in Geneva. The other would be sold to the general public during the auction that changed the course of history for the brand Patek Philippe: The auction of 9 April 1989 entitled "L'arte di Patek Philippe". In this historic auction, Patek Philippe 2499 Platinum was beaten for a total of 418,000 Swiss francsWe repeat, in 1989, certainly not today, in which the value of the watches is notoriously gone!

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It affects know that then this specimen ended up in the hands of Eric “Slow Hand” ClaptonFamous watch enthusiast? And that ended up back at auction for $ 3.63 Million thus defining the Patek Philippe 2499 as one of the most important watches on the planet? Yes, but it's probably much more important to stress that the Patek Philippe 2499 It is considered to be the apex of the design Patek Philippe and with only 349 copies / pieces made in 35 years (less than 10 watches per year!).

The Patek Philippe Reference 3970

The Patek Philippe 3970 from the floodgates of the modern era brand. According to experts is a chronograph with perpetual calendar to say the least well-balanced, perfect rest in its conception as only those who conceived its birth and development can produce.

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The Patek Philippe 3970 He began its production in 1986, following almost the end of the duplicate in the final 2499/100 platinum, with an introductory promotion publicity retail new product. The news? Easy to say why Patek Philippe 3970 it is the first Patek Philippe not to use a chronograph based on historical movement Valjoux, But instead one based on a movement Lemania named 2310.

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And today Lemania 2310 is considered one of the best movements in the world, surpassing any other single time in the caliber and also used by several other manufacturers believe is just? We at Jewellery Bonanno we know it well!

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But there's more. Considered by connoisseurs a real clock snapback in its scope (ie "turning" in effect), First of all Patek Philippe 3970 It takes a step backwards in the dimension of the case, dating a 36 mm. and not with 37,5 mm. the 2499, Making almost a step back as if it were a new 1518. Moreover, the real news is that the case is produced in all four of the most significant metals (Gold, White Gold, Rose gold E platinum), Included for the first time a perpetual chronograph in white gold! And then ... Yes, you read, there will be for him a serie, Just like its immediate predecessor 2499.

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The first set of Patek Philippe 3970 It is performed in 1986 with a production of about 100 watches, All in Yellow gold. And to make things even more confusing (or increase the randomness of mystery, you name it ...), the 3970 actually launched on the market is joined to a reference Sorella named 3971. Both of these watches have bottoms snap, instead of the more modern ride screw. But if the Patek Philippe 3970 in fact presents a solid, classic snap cap, the 3971 It equips in turn of a snap cap but with a fantastic sapphire glass, which allows you to see the fascinating move of the movement without having to raise!

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In addition, the dial of the first serie presents leaf hands and stick indexes, giving in this way a very similar appearance to that of a second series 2499.

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So here we are at second series the Patek Philippe 3970. It is a second series very, very similar to the first to the front. There are in fact the same hands in leaves and the same indexes on the dial. The big difference is that the front of the logs are now the dial: all painting is compact and uniform.

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But it is on the back of the product that second series the Patek Philipp 3970 differs from the first in a more meaningful way to the point that instead of a clock snapback (That is turning), we are before a potential step back, at least at first glance. This is because in the early years of production 3970, the Patek Philippe It was particularly attentive to the demands of its customers, and there are examples even customized around.

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As it is well then easy to deduce, this second series of Patek Philippe 3970 (Produced between 1986 and 1991 and immediately followed by reference Sorella 3971 with the sapphire case screw), it is highly collectable and, although not to have a consistent price on the market today, it is possible that over time the differentiation between the clocks of the first and second series with respect to the third series 3970 It will become more pronounced. Wanna bet?

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Thus we come to third series the Patek Philippe 3970, Those of more widespread series and more available on the market. The official reference would 3970E with the “E” stands for "Waterproof" or if you prefer "waterproof" because now these patek 3970 are both with the sapphire glass, therefore in view, which with the gold pad. On the front of the clock there are the news: baton instead of a leaf and the hour markers now a pointed tip. The printing of the same quadrant is much darker than the first or the second set and it can be noted that the dial is now a bright and clear silver color that they give an appearance very, very refined.

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Now the Patek Philippe 3970, With its size of 36 mm and this look of undoubted sophistication, it is really something special. And then it really is the watch you can even define the best corporate mission Patek PhilippeThat is, his pursuit of perfection, combined with the elegance and prestige. But the downside is that the prices of 3970 on the market Vintage They are low because there are so many 3970 third series on the market!?!?

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Yes, according to the estimate based on his production in 18 years (always approximate), the number of copies of the 3970 products would be a number between the 2.400 E 3,600 watches. So, it is more than 10 times the number of 1518 or even of 2499 made. As a result, prices will be much lower than the 1518 E 2499Although there are cases that have already occurred in the market that indicate considerable figures for 3970 with special dials. In essence, it is always the condition in which pours globally the clock to make a difference.

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There were also cases of Patek Philippe 3970P (P stands for platinum), well-listed because they are characterized by a black dial and indexes with diamonds. But be clear, many connoisseurs consider much more valuable than this model, the same 3970 in White Gold with black dial and without diamonds, or even those in platinum! The dispute is still in the running.

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But at this point the fans are asking a legitimate question, question several times also posed to us the Jewellery Bonanno in all these years of activity: considering the factors in the field, such as the latest in the family it should be considered to be of 3970 that can assume a value defined in the scale merit?

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Very difficult to give a definite answer to this question because there is not really one!?!? At least we not in the same way were evaluated both Patek Philippe 1518 steel oppure i Patek Philippe 2499 in oro. These 3970 They were made in platinum and in series and do not know specimens produced in steel although it can not be totally excluded that they exist. So always logical deduction, the only 3970 which may become valuable They are those with special dials, Of which there are few around. or those 3970 with special color or style dials numbers Breguet, These details can really make a difference.

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However you are assured of a 3970 It sold for nearly $ 340,000 at a Christie's auction in Hong Kong but this price is always cheaper than average for a Patek Philippe 2499, Whatever the series. However, reference 3970 It is always a production Patek Philippe the highest level, and although it could not be considered just as one of the true models Vintage of this family, its qualities remain intact.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5020

Subsequently, the House Switzerland produces a new version, called 5020. The Patek Philippe 5020 It is produced with the same caliber of Lemania used to 3970 and is inserted into a large chest, as great as the riservargli nickname of "Television". The dial instead is composed with hands and numbers provided by Breguet.

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Unlike his great-grandchildren, the Patek Philippe 5020 It has been a total failure of the public and critics since it was launched in the early 90s and, as such, the production was stopped after just two years. For this reason, the experts estimate that has been made less than 300 specimens and then placing the 5020 at the same level in terms of rarity of both the 1518 that the 2499!!

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For a long time Patek Philippe 5020 It was considered only by those collectors fan Swiss house until a 5020P, Just the fifth ever put on auction, he was beaten to New York Bonhams 2011 for the considerable sum of $ 338,000.

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Since then the value of the 5020 has been steadily increasing and its assessment has opened the eyes of collectors around the world, with the result that today a Patek Philippe 5020 Yellow gold It is evaluated and sold as a 5970P.

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In common with its predecessor 3970the Patek Philippe 5020 It would not seem to have its own version particularly attractive in terms of value and therefore economic evaluation on the market. However, it is produced approximately solo 20 specimens platinum, it can be said that a 5020P with black dial and diamond indexes (such as the 3970 mentioned earlier), aims to become a timepiece level in the collecting. Finally, returning to the theme of quality chronograph with perpetual calendar Patek Philippethe 5020 It remains a production with less success though always a Patek production.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5004

As often it happens, after a flop, Comes a top! After the unsuccessful immediate commercial market of 5020, the Patek Philippe picks up again with a new chronograph named 5004 with, on the inside, even counting sdoppianti seconds. Yes, this new series 5004 It strikes at the center of the target and is absolutely iconic and beloved by collectors patek. Keeping the chest 36 mm., The Patek Philippe 5004 It is realized with a greater depth of the same to make space for the rattrapante mechanism, positioned above the proven and efficient caliber of Lemania.

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A watch so unique, innovative and stunning with a perpetual calendar chronograph seconds more, being considered one of the most important of the modern era. The Patek Philippe 5004 It was launched in 1996 and expert estimates indicate an output of about 12 pieces every year, until the 5204 was introduced in 2012. Although made of all metals, Patek Philippe 5004 Today most coveted is the steel version but also that platinum has a big appeal.

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Therefore, matters standing, We the Jewellery Bonanno we can say that every Patek Philippe 5004 is in itself a valuable watch. Also you can choose some special pieces that can be defined as the finest among the fine !!

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And what are they? First of all there is the Patek Philippe 5004A where of course "A" stands for steel. It spread on a logical market state of excitement that was not appeased even when it was learned that although at a price of more than $ 300,000 for exemplary customer sale by the parent company itself, 5004A would have the buyer's name engraved on the case back by the same patekJust to deter the posthumous sale on the private market. Mission failed, because shortly after these Patek Philippe 5004A They have appeared at auction. For example, a specimen was sold at Christie's Hong Kong for $ 409,000!

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A touch of color? It's been going on for some time a close dialogue between the most avid collectors of production Patek PhilippeBoth to increase the atavistic thirst for knowledge but also to outline a known controversy of recent times.

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Everything originated when the patek announced (direct her or its licensees?), he produced a series of new specimens 5004 exclusively in steel to enhance the uniqueness of the same.

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But there are other 5004 Special on the market, such as those with special dials and even some with bracelets factory patek. But all this decade's speech when we are talking about the Patek Philippe 5004T. Yes, this is truly a unique piece because Titanium which it was sold on Only Watch in 2018 for the considerable sum of $ 3.98 million, More than one already mentioned before Clapton 2499.

The Patek Philippe Reference 5970

Finally, coming to the present day, that's Patek Philippe Reference 5970, another the best of in the success story of Patek Philippe. In fact, according to some admirers (and of course there began a fierce controversy), we are maybe talking about the best watch that Patek Philippe I have ever made. Some describe enhancing the proportion of its features, others call it even "The last of the great Patek Philippes".

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The Patek Philippe Reference 5970 was produced between 2004 and 2011, then moved to 5270. On closer inspection it is a production run of just seven years making it the shortest production of any Chronograph Perpetual patek. This very important fact combined with a new modern crate 40 mm., A quadrant perfectly balanced with the inclusion of a tachometer and to a totally different appearance from its ancestors, make the Patek Philippe 5970 a real relief watch! Inside the crate 40 mm. there is the same movement based on Lemania we saw introduced by 3970 and confirmed in 5020.

Also aesthetically clean stairs and readable of the two sub dials at 9 and 3 recall the 3970.

With the Patek Philippe Reference 5970 we have a production in four different metals, with the model platinum that stands in the ranking of the most coveted. But doing the tare with this reasoning, many believe instead that it is the 5970J (Ie yellow gold), to be the rarest. In this version in fact there are not too many changes in the dial on 5970, although some pieces have the handles Tiffany and occasionally there is something special ordered to this directly to the parent.

The Patek Philippe 5970 But it remains without any doubt, one of the safest in this so multifaceted and fascinating universe investments. An example? The gravure New York in 2005 published an article in which we wondered if the 5970G indeed worth the price then estimated $ 89,600. Well, now nearly 15 years since this article, the same watch is worth about $ 145,000 on the used market !! More than any other safe haven so !!

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What's more a Patek Philippe 5970J with colored dial Champagne It was valued $ 353,000 less than 16 months ago and that for this rare color of its face, not forgetting the purchase price of $ 150,000 compared to a normal 5970J. For models Rose gold, Off White E Giallo We expect to pay around 130.00 - $ 150,000 while the same, or about $ 175,000, for a specimen of platinum. So on the used market all 5970 They are on the rise, with a platinum model that reached $ 217,000 some time ago!

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At this point a question arises: There is a fancy 5970 to everyone else?

Very, very difficult to say with certainty. Someone likes to say that all Patek Philippe 5970 are worthy in terms of quality and then evaluated. But if we really wanted to go looking for one, the most valuable of all ... We could give this award to Patek Philippe 5970 it always belongs to our Eric “Slow Hand” Clapton, As seen already own a 2499. Indeed, there are photos of the great guitarist and singer taken to 2011 Italian Grand PrixWearing what most seemed to be just a Patek Philippe 5970 metal Off White with Breguet numerals!

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But be careful: even a seemingly minor change to the normal production can affect the price: for example, white hands the hours and minutes quoted a 5970 with black dial in platinum in the 225,000 Swiss francs Sotheby's Geneva in November 2016.

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In conclusion and regardless, the Patek Philippe 5970 It remains the pinnacle of modern watch collection.